The mere mention of Goa conjures up a kaleidoscopic picture of the sun, sea, sand, seafood and spice. Blessed with over a hundred kilometres of coastline with beautiful beaches—ideal for sunbathing, water sports, swimming and dolphin-watching—this state in the Konkan region of south- west India is arguably the most popular tourist hub in the country. Air charters full of tourists—mostly low-budget and backpackers—land at Goa’s Dabolim airport, disgorging their passengers in this sunny paradise. During the winter months—particularly during Christmas and new year—Goa is flooded with tourists, both from India and overseas, who flock there to soak in its unique festive air.

Goa, of course, is much more than a popular holiday resort. Besides its beaches and trance parties, it is a place rich in history and culture. The hinterland is lush green and idyllic, dotted with beautiful old-time villas, majestic temples and churches boasting a quaint mix of Portuguese and Indian traditions. Ruled for over 450 years by the Portuguese, it undeniably has the feel of a place distinct from other states in India that were ruled by the British. This coupled with its breathtaking natural beauty makes it stand out as a must-see place for anyone visiting India.

Regrettably, the beauty of this land is also its biggest curse. Not only do people want to visit the place but also own a chunk of it. For instance, almost everybody who is somebody in north India craves to own a second home in Goa to escape the bitter winter cold and suffocating smog of Delhi or its satellite towns. The inevitable result is that Goa is slowly turning into a concrete jungle.

I have been to Goa not only as a vacationer but also  in a completely different avatar—as its police chief. To be on holiday in Goa and to serve as its police chief are two antithetical experiences. I wish to write about the latter, to give my readers a sense of what it was like working as a police officer in Goa.

To be continued….