Declassified U.S. Army Photos from the '70s and '80s: A Fashion Retrospective

Matthieu Nicol's newly released monograph, "Fashion Army," delves into the captivating intersection of military aesthetics and contemporary fashion. Featuring over 350 declassified images from the U.S. Army’s Natick Soldier Systems Center (NSSC), the book highlights how military uniforms have influenced various subcultures and fashion trends over the decades.

Despite the grim realities of warfare, military styles—such as camouflage prints and khaki tones—have found a prominent place in popular culture. Nicol’s research led him to discover nearly 15,000 declassified photographs of non-models in military attire, which he meticulously curated for this project. These images, taken between the late '70s and early '90s, are not propaganda but were likely intended to showcase new uniform prototypes for different military branches.

"Fashion Army" explores the profound impact of military style on counterculture fashion. Cheap army surplus stores in the '60s informed the style of various movements, while later, these aesthetics influenced indie bands in the early 2000s. Nicol notes that many current fashion trends echo designs from these archived images, suggesting a continuous dialogue between military and civilian fashion.

Critics have praised the book for its aesthetic quality. Fashion critic Angelo Flaccavento remarked that the images "ooze a glaring sense of now," highlighting their relevance in today's fashion landscape. Nicol's observations reveal parallels between the styles depicted in the photos and contemporary brands, such as Carhartt and high-fashion labels, illustrating how military research often leads to civilian applications.

Nicol’s exploration raises questions about the origins and intent behind these images, as the Army has not provided clarity on their purpose. Nevertheless, the striking visuals within "Fashion Army" serve as a reminder of how military fashion continues to shape our wardrobes, blurring the lines between duty and style.