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The art of Tilla Dozi, which is thought to have its roots in the isolated Iranian village of Zari, arrived in Kashmir with the migration of the renowned Muslim saint Shah e Hamdan (RA) and his band of 700 artisans following Taimur's invasion.
The skill is essentially needlepoint embroidery done with silver or gold thread. Since the beginning of time, classical decoration has been associated with monarchy, and elite women have chosen it for millennia. Traditional Phirans, shawls, stoles, saris, and other garments have all been enchanted by its brilliant hues.
Tilla Dozi is a technique that starts with the Naqash, or designer, who draws the design over the tracing paper and "Trombun" the paper by perforating it with a special needle. His helpers produce the white and blue inks in the meantime by combining some kerosene with sand from the Jhelum River. A paper weight is placed on top of the tracing paper after it has been carefully laid on the fabric. A duster soaked in ink—blue for dark-colored fabrics and white for light-colored ones—is then passed. As a result, these pieces of simple cotton are covered in prints of paisleys, Kashmiri flowers, and chinar leaves. The second stage of casting the "Chaamp Traavun" is to use the create the beautiful embrioidery
A Tilla craftsman is then given the imprinted cloth, who uses two threads—one staple and the other Tilla—to embroider the plain canvas waiting for his strokes. Utilizing a specific needle and concealing cotton thread, the Tilla is threaded over the fabric using this technique to create a flawless and long-lasting delicacy. In order to produce the required thickness for the needlework to be done, malleable copper is utilised as an underwire in the Tilla thread and coated with silver or gold colours.
Must have of every Kashmiri bride's trousseau is Tilla embroidered pieces because of their unwavering class and lustre. During her Nikah ceremony, a typical Kashmiri Muslim bride is frequently seen wearing a "Tille Daar Pheran" (Tilla Worked Phiran), and she also brings vast quantities of the handiwork into her new home.