Every morning, a queue forms at the foot of the hill, comprising tourists, devotees, and followers, eagerly anticipating an audience with the Dalai Lama. Security measures are stringent, necessitating visitors to deposit their belongings and offer a silk scarf or khata as a tribute. At 88, the spiritual leader of Tibetan Buddhists and the figurehead of the exiled Tibetan community remains robust, although concerns linger about his knees and hearing.

During our rare audience with him, organized by the India Tibet Coordination Office, the Dalai Lama reiterates familiar themes: his aspiration to return to Lhasa while acknowledging a permanent home in India, and his observation of a changing China, with increasing interest in Buddhism. His unwavering commitment to non-violence and the pursuit of autonomy within Tibet, not separation from China, remains the focal point of his message.

However, an air of unease is palpable, evidenced by furrows on the Dalai Lama's otherwise serene countenance. Wandering through McLeodganj, affectionately dubbed 'little Lhasa,' the weight of the future looms large. Concerns about mounting restrictions within Tibet, the scattering of the Tibetan diaspora globally, and the critical issue of the Dalai Lama's succession, pivotal to the direction of the Tibetan movement, persist as formidable challenges.