Tucked Away in Tirthan - Part 3 by Mandvi

Leaning tower of Chehni Kothi

Next morning, we discover there is no straight route in the mountains to things in plain sight. We walk through flowering apple orchards and houses with wild rose bushes with paths branching up and down the slopes.

We finally hit a dirt track just below Chehni village where an enterprising fellow with a tea stall is now constructing a ‘homestay’ with many rooms. He is going to be ready when the hordes drive up, till then there will be days like today when we have the place to ourselves.

Two lost and frightened cows attach themselves, literally, to us, scaring me more. Their pretty owner is chatting with a woman making pattu on a hand loom. The square is deserted save a few boys. A woman with a baby tied to her back, has come to fetch water from the community tap.

The Kath-Kuni styled tower of Chehni Kothi, with its debatable antiquity, apparently lost some of its floors in the 1905 earthquake. Yet it dwarfs everything around including the Krishna temple behind and another smaller tower in front.

It leans ever so slightly. The staircase to the balcony way above is carved out of a single log of wood. The makers, like sure-footed mountain goats, gave no thought to lesser mortals needing support or width. But then outsiders are not allowed to climb up. (Scraping them off the floor would be messy!)

The temple with carved wooden balconies looks like a mansion which has seen better days. Its entrance is through a wooden platform jutting out of the structure. There is a courtyard inside but we can’t find the inner sanctum. 

To be continued……..