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Nice Post.
Dar es Salaam, Tanzania has been an outlier amongst the mega-cities of Africa for years. Decades of socialist rural-first development policy after independence meant that cities like Nairobi, a close neighbor, grew much faster, much quicker. Dar was seen for years as a modest second-tier port town, rather than a powerhouse.
That all began to change in the mid-1980s as people began flocking to Dar in vast numbers. Although it was late to the race, today it is Africa's fastest growing city, projected to reach a population of 6.2 million by 2025. That's an increase of 85% since 2010.
This vast growth has led to sprawling informal areas spidering outward from the city centre. Above, Masaki still retains its exclusive, wealthy character, while the poorer suburb of Msasani exists in a dense jumble across the road. Most expats and wealthy residents live in the enclaves of Masaki and Oyster Bay, formerly "European areas" reserved for the British and German colonial overlords and clearly represented in maps from the period.
Like many cities in the Global South, Dar is plagued by standstill traffic, vast inequalities of wealth, and extreme poverty. However there are reasons to celebrate: a new Chinese-funded bus rapid transit service recently opened, and several construction mega-projects are underway to alleviate traffic. The city centre is crowned with yellow construction cranes, building the next generation of Tanzanian office blocks. And the city is home to Africa's fastest growing emerging middle class.
Kunduchi Wet-n-Wild water park is a playground for Dar's wealthy residents to relax in the oppressive heat and humidity. Across the fence however, a modest fishing village exists in a simple and altogether separate reality of poverty. The day I was there, the fishermen dismissed the resort with a wave of their hand. "It doesn't matter to us", they told me.
Revealing these juxtapositions is an important part of understanding the full story. Pictures on the Kunduchi Facebook page, for example, crop out the village entirely.